Add a NAS drive to your Livedrive account for free

I used to be a customer of popular cloud backup service Livedrive. The upload and download speeds were nothing to shout about and one annoyance was having to pay extra to add a NAS drive to your account, but there is a workaround!

How so?

All you need to do is add a symbolic link to your NAS drive from your computer. Think of a symbolic link as a fancy shortcut, the only difference being it masks the destination instead of taking you straight there – you’ll see what I mean when you read on.

Imagine you have a Windows computer with your NAS drive with the root of the drive already mapped to Z:, you have a folder on your NAS called MyFiles and would be able to browse to Z:\MyFiles to see whatever is stored there. Next imagine we have a folder called C:\Backup which is already uploading to your Livedrive account, using  the following command we will make C:\Backup\MyFiles lead to your NAS and in turn be included with your Livedrive backup.

mklink /d "C:\Backup\MyFiles" "Z:\MyFiles"

For me, this worked absolutely fine and I had a couple of TB uploaded without ever being caught out. I’ve since jumped ship to Amazon Drive, whilst it is more expensive per year I’ve got it running from multiple computers and the upload and download speed always tops out my connection, so I can’t complain!

Notes

  • Use the above guide at your own risk – I won’t be held liable if anything happens to your Livedrive account, files or anything else because of this!
  • This doesn’t work with Dropbox or Google Drive  – sorry
  • You only need to run the command once, after that the link will be remembered
  • To remove the link just delete it as you would any other  file or folder

TRENDnet TV-IP310pi Night Vision Fix

Let’s face it, it’s not fun when things don’t work properly which is why I was a little annoyed recently – very big understatment! – when I discovered my TRENDnet TV-IP310pi cameras had a slight flaw, a flaw which is scarcely documented but fairly fundemental to the overall use of the camera… oh and did I forget to mention I own 5 of these cameras, all installed around my house, all which had the same problem? Yup!

So what is the actual problem?

Well the cameras work perfectly in the day delivering 25 frames per second of crisp 1080p footage which is great BUT when the night time comes – as it does – performance takes a dramatic hit and you are lucky to get a maximum of 4 frames per second… which is pretty rubbish! For months I’ve been thinking it  was a problem with my home server – an Intel I7 920 quad core 2.4GHz  running VMware – and I came to the conclusion that I needed a new rig as it just couldn’t cope with the amount of data passing through but oh was I wrong!

Anyway, long story short after pestering my friend Chris at work – who also runs his own CCTV system, only with the identical Hikvision DS-2CD2032F-I cameras – some extensive testing was done – I’ll spare you the details – but we came to the conclusion that the hardware was good, the network was good and were stumped until we found an Amazon review which also mentioned the same problem!

This unfortunatley opened up a can of worms and what followed was a very stressful 3 days which involved not sleeping much, scouring forums, downloading all sorts of firmware and almost losing ALL hope and contacting support! However, I’m very pleased to report that all of my cameras are now running the latest TRENDnet firmware – v5.3.4 – and are delivering 25 FPS 1080p footage at night time – Wow!

So how easy is it to fix?

The fix is easier than you might think, but you do need to be brave as we are essentially going to ‘brick’ the camera and make it an expensive paper weight by installing the Hikvision firmware, then we will reload the TRENDnet firmware fresh and enjoy ALL the frames per second! You might think this is a mad idea, but the TRENDnet TV-IP310pi is actually a rebranded version of the Hikvision DS-2CD2032F-I, so deep down the hardware is the same it just has a different sticker on the side.

I used the following files found below, combined with an XP laptop that was connected by cable directly to the PoE switch, this was connected to the camera directly and ideally  you’ll want to unplug all other devices so you only have the camera and the laptop plugged in but I might have got a bit lazy towards the end… Also, my Windows 7 laptop struggled to transfer the firmware as the TFTP file transfer kept looping and wouldn’t complete, hence using an old XP machine.

I’m up for the challenge!

Great! Before you continue please be aware that I won’t be liable if this goes wrong and it will reset your camera back to the factory default settings! I’ve done this process 5 times flawlessly so far but still – proceed at your own risk!

Whenever the camera boots it scans a predefined IP for a TFTP server, if it finds this server it looks for a specific file and because of this we can do the recovery without having to open the camera up or get ‘hands on’! I reflashed all my cameras with them still fixed in position on the house, minimal effort required!

  1. Download the files found here, extract them somewhere safe and keep reading
  2. Change your computers network settings so the IP address is 192.0.0.128, see picture below:
    trendnet_tv-ip310pi_recovery-network-config
  3. Connect your computer to the switch along with the camera, disable any other connections network – FLASH VIA ETHERNET CABLE ONLY!
  4. Copy the Hikvision_5-1-6–digicap.dav file into the TFTP Server folder and rename it digicap.dav
  5. Run tftpserv.exe and then restart your camera, after a few seconds you should see the following:
    trendnet_tv-ip310pi_recovery-tftp1
  6. Now you won’t get any confirmation here, so leave it 2 or 3 minutes then unplug your camera, close the tftpserv.exe and repeat step 3 but this time use the Trendnet_5-3-4–digicap.dav file
  7. Now start tftpserv.exe again and connect your IP camera, this time after a few minutes you’ll see a system update complete message like below:
    trendnet_tv-ip310pi_recovery-tftp2
  8. Close of tftpserv.exe and reboot the camera, after a few minutes check your router and you’ll have a fresh IP camera sat on DHCP waiting be configured! If you can’t find your camera straight away, don’t panic! Install the auto discovery program (SADPTool_V3.0.0.100.exe) and find the camera that way

Conclusion

I did try updating to the latest TRENDnet firmware via the web interface before going down the TFTP route but it still gave me low frames per second at night using the identical 5.3.4 file… I’m guessing installing the Hikvision firmware first completely screwed things up, after that the camera is left fresh, ready for the TRENDnet firmware? Either way it worked and I’m a happy nerd!

Notes

  • Again, I can’t be liable if this goes wrong for you!
  • The files in the link above were all found on the Internet, I take no credit, all  credit belongs to the respective authors (presuming that is Hikvision? Thanks!)
  • If you get really stuck I can reflash your cameras, after all not everyone has an old XP relic lying around! Drop me an email, pay for postage and send your camera in a box along with a little gift!
  • I found an easy way to tell the camera state during the reflashing process which is to do a constant ping to the IP addresses below – Note that in order to use this method you’ll need to assign your network card two IP addresses (192.0.0.128 and 192.168.1.128):
    • 192.0.0.64 – Camera is in rescue mode
    • 192.168.1.64 – Camera firmware has updated but not yet rebooted
    • No response from either – Somethings not right!
  • You can find the latest TRENDnet firmware direct from their website here
  • From various forum posts I read some people were saying you can flash using any TFTP server software, however this isn’t the case as you must use the Hikvision TFTP server as there is a special initiation process which waits for certain key to be sent back and forward before the firmware updating process begins
  • Make sure you clear your browser cache before logging in again otherwise things might not work properly

Find Out Who Registered A Domain Name

The Internet is an amazing place where we can expand our knowledge – or – just look pictures of animals with funny captions, but have you ever wondered to yourself who owns that domain, who took the time to build that amazing website, see if a business is legit or maybe you just want to learn a new nerdy skill?

A domain name can be registered by anyone so long as its available and not registered to anyone else, and can be bought at anytime through hundreds, thousands or maybe millions of companies known as domain registrars. The job of a domain registrar is to take money and convert it into domain registrations as they are essentially the middle men between the domain registries (the top dogs of the domain world, the owners of the bit after the dot) and ourselves.

When a domain is registered, regardless of the registrar used, contact details will always need to be provided. These details form what’s known as the legal registrant and can be either a company or an individual who will legally own the name for however long it has been registered for.

That’s great but what next? Well here comes the juicy bit! All that information is kept in a global database known as the WHOIS database (pronounced “who is”) which is free to browse and will give an insight into any domain registration.

Querying WHOIS

The following guide will show you step by step how to query the WHOIS database for free with no special software required. To keep things simple I will be using a website that I created which has a built in WHOIS tool.

  • First things first we need to head to the WHOIS tool, click onto the following link or type it into your address bar directly: http://www.nerdtools.co.uk/whois/
  • Once the website loads you’ll see a box where it asks you to enter a domain name, enter the domain which you would like to query and press Enter or the “Let’s do this! >” button
    whois-query-1
  • After a few seconds you’ll be redirected to a new page that shows the domain details in a similar format to one shown below:
    whois-query-2
  • As  you can see from the screenshot above a lot of information is returned, so much that it doesn’t all fit on screen without scrolling but once you read through you will easily see who owns the domain, when it was registered, when it expires and other useful information

Notes

  • In the example above you can see no “Registrant’s address” is returned, this is because its a .UK domain and Nominet (the registry behind all .UK domains) allow the address to be hidden for any non-trading individuals, but with domains such as .COM, .NET, .ORG the information will always be available
  • Depending on the domain name things may look a little different to the one in the example
  • Any changes to a domains details can take up to 24 hours to show so things may not always be accurate
  • There are strict terms that need to be followed when it comes to using the information returned from a lookup and these can be found usually be found at the bottom – It’s not shown in the screenshot as it was so big, to see them click here and scroll down
  • Sometimes registrars offer a privacy package that will hide the registrants contact information and replace it with the registrars instead, if you see a domain like this that’s trading as a business stay well away as it could be up to no good!

Windows 10 Automatic Login at Boot or Switch of User

There may come a time in your nerdy life where you want your computer to automatically log in at boot or whenever anybody signs out, this can be especially useful if you are running software that needs a user to be constantly logged in.

For example, I run CCTV software on my computer via a user called Console, the software displays live camera feeds on a second screen at my desk, the same signal is fed via a splitter through network cables eventually reaching various screens dotted around my house.

The setup requires my Console user to be constantly logged in, be it when the system boots or after I have finished checking my emails or being nerdy.

It is fairly straight forward to get going, in my case on Windows 10 Pro I ran the built-in netplwiz(.exe) utility and added one string value to the registry.

Part 1: Configuring automatic login at boot

  1. Run netplwiz(.exe) and uncheck the box saying Users must enter a username and password to use this computer.
  2. Press OK then enter the username and password you want the computer to automatically login as and press OK again

That’s the first part completed, so now whenever you boot your computer it will automatically sign in as the user account you have set.

Part 2: Configure automatic login when signing out/switching user

The next part involves adding a regsitry key with a string value, once this was done I found it worked straight away without having to reboot my machine.

  1. Open regedit(.exe) and navigate to HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows NT\CurrentVersion\Winlogon

    Right click on Winlogon and select New > String Value

  2. For the value name enter ForceAutoLogon, double click the line you just added and enter the  value date to 1

That’s it! Now when you sign out it will automatically sign back in to the user account set in first step.

Notes

  • If you want to log in as a different user, hold the shift key whilst locking your account, you’ll then see the normal Windows login screen
  • You can do step 1 via the registry if you want, but why over complicate things!

Encrypted AES VPN tunnel between pfSense 2.3 and Draytek 2830

For a long time now I’ve managed several VMware ESXi servers and for easy management I’ve created a local area network on each making backups, monitoring and the usual sysad tasks a breeze.

The icing on the cake is that I recently swapped from m0n0walll to pfSense and went about setting up a lan to lan VPN tunnel to my home network, so now I can access everything locally as if I was on the same network.

Home Network

My home network uses a Draytek 2830 connected to a Virgin Media Superhub. Unfortunatley the Draytek is getting on a little bit now and doesn’t have the processing power to deal with my 100mbit connection speed, so I’ve had to double NAT the network using the Superhub in router mode and then DMZ everything towards the Draytek.

This isn’t a bad thing though as all the “dumb” wireless devices (mobile phones, Roku’s, Nest thermostat, etc) connect direct to the Superhub whilst my home server and everything crucial connect via the Draytek. All in all I get 70mbit through the Draytek on average and there’s plenty of bandwidth left for the devices connected to the Superhub.

In the example below the home network subnet will be 192.168.100.x

Remote Network

The remote network is pretty simple, they are all setup the same apart from x is a different number based on the virtual host name – a pfSense machine sits at x.1 and deals with traffic to the local network.

In the example below the remote subnet will be 192.168.150.x

Important

  • Each local area network must be on a seperate subnet, otherwise things can quickly get messy and conflict!
  • Make sure you use a secure pre-shared key, anything above 32 characters will do nicely
  • The example details below are fake, replace them with your own details if you want this to work

Configuring pfSense

The guide below lists only the parts you need to change, if the option isn’t listed then leave it as is

Fairly straight forward, go to VPN > IPSec > Click Add P1

  • Enter the Remote Gateway as the WAN IP address of the Draytek (or the Superhub in my case)
  • Enter a brieft description in the Description box
  • If you are double NAT’d like me select Peer identifer as KeyID tag then enter the WAN2 address of Draytek else leave as Peer IP address
  • Enter your pre-shared key in the Pre-Shared Key box
  • Press Save

That’s your Phase 1 entry configured, now for Phase 2:

Go to VPN > IPSec > Click on Show Phase 2 Entries for Home

  • Enter Remote Network as the home network subnet – 192.168.100.0/24
  • Put a brief description in the Description box
  • Set PSF Key Group to 2
  • Press Save and then hit Apply Changes

Finally, we need to create a firewall rule to allow traffic to pass over the VPN:

  • Go to Firewall > Rules > IPSec and click Add
  • Change Protocol to any
  • Enter a brief description in the Description box
  • Press Save any hit Apply Changes

Configuring the Draytek

Now it is time to configure the Draytek – Go to VPN and Remote Access > LAN to LAN

For Common Settings:

  • Enter a Profile Name
  • Tick Enable this profile
  • Make sure Call Direction is set to Both

For Dial-Out Settings:

  • Set type of server to IPSec Tunnel
  • Enter the Remote WAN IP in the Server IP/Hostname for VPN box
  • Enter the pre-shared key set previously in the Pre-Shared Key box
  • For IPSec Security Method set it to High (ESP)AES with Authentication
  • Under Advanced set IKE phase 1 propsal to AES256_SHa1-G14 and IKE phase 2 proposal to AES256_SHA1 then press OK

For Dial-In Settings:

  • Set the Allowed Dial-In Type to IPSec Tunnel
  • Tick the box to Specify Remote VPN Gateway and enter the remote network WAN IP
  • Enter the pre-shared key set previously in the Pre-Shared Key box
  • For IPSec Security Method untick all apart from High (ESP) – AES

Under TCP/IP Netowrk Settings:

  • Set Remote Network IP as the remote network subnet – 192.168.150.0

Hit OK at the very bottom to save the profile, leave it a few seconds and it should connect. If it doesn’t connect automatically, head to the IPSec Status page in pfSense and hit Connect manually

How to List the Contents of a Web Directory

Any good web host will secure the contents of website directories which don’t have an index page by not allowing the  files or folders to be listed, instead you’ll get a 403 error page saying access is forbidden. Whilst this is good in practice, sometimes you might actually need to list the contents – and its simple to enable on an Apache web server – add one line to your .htaccess file and you’re done!

How it’s done

Options +Indexes

Notes

  • If you have access you can edit your web server configuration and make it global

Setup your own live pet webcam for free using Yawcam

I’ve been experimenting for a while with different ways to stream live to the Internet from webcams, IP cameras and capture cards for the Coop Cam project, here is a basic guide on how to setup a simple live stream using a basic webcam.

What is required?

You will need a couple of things, including:

  • A computer with a webcam
  • An Internet connection with decent upload speed
  • Router access to port forward

Software

To create the stream we will use a free piece of opensource software called Yawcam, you can download it directly from here or learn more about the software here.

Installation is pretty simple, download and launch the installer then follow the on screen instructions.

Configuration

After the installation has finished open your newly installed software, you will see a screen like below:

1

The first thing we need to do is set the stream type, to do this go to Settings > Edit Settings…

2

Under Output select Stream and change the Stream type to MJPEG and hit OK

3

Next we need to select your webcam, head to Settings > Device > Change to and select your webcam from the list

4

Finally, back on the main screen hit enable on the Stream option – we are ready to go!

5

Previewing your stream

Here is the exciting part, previewing your live stream! On the same computer open up your browser and head to http://127.0.0.1:8081/video.mjpg

If everything is configured correctly you should see your webcam displayed live.

Here is my example of Spirit our pet quail:



What next?

The next thing you need to do is configure port forwarding in your router to allow people to connect in and view  your stream. I can’t really go into specific detail as there are many different types of router with different configuration options but basically what you want to do is forward port 8081 to your computer so anyone that connects to your-public-ip:8081/video.mjpg can see your stream.

You will also want to make sure that your computer has a static IP address or DHCP reservation to make sure the local IP address doesn’t change.

If you need help with that part let me know and I’ll give you a hand.

Will my Internet connection be able to cope?

This depends entirely on your upload speed, by default Yawcam only allows 10 concurrent connections.

For added security and to take the strain off your Internet connection I can relay your stream via Coop Cam’s powerful relay servers. They are able to take the single stream from your camera and amplify it allowing hundreds of users to connect at once.

The upside to this is that you will only have one connection being uploaded to the relay server, the server then handles everything else and even hides your public IP address – If you would like to know more please get in touch.

Notes

  • If you want Yawcam to start streaming automatically when you login to your computer then head to Settings > Edit Settings… > Startup and tick Start Stream output
  • You can check that port forwarding has been setup correctly by using the NerdTools Port Scanner, if it isn’t working double check your firewall settings
  • If your Internet connection has a dynamic IP address you’ll want to look into a Dynamic DNS service

Remove Adverts from All 4 Roku App

Disclaimer

This post is for educational purposes only, it briefly describes a technique for removing the adverts from Channel 4’s on demand service. I won’t be providing any working examples and won’t be held liable whatever the outcome if you try this, this was just setup as a test one afternoon and then destroyed shortly after. Do so at your own risk.

Why even bother?

Now I love TV but I always end up forgetting and then having to catch up later using on demand services via my NowTV box, some services are great – like the BBC iPlayer – where as others – 4OD or All 4 – lack basic features like being able to resume where you left off without having to sit through the ads again.

This got me thinking, is it possible to get around the ads? Picture this… you are watching an hour long programme on your Roku (or NowTV) box, you have 10 minutes to go and you have to nip out. You come back hoping to pick up where you left off.. but oh no, something happened and now you have to watch from the begining OR fast forward until you get to an ad break, watch the ads, then fast forward again… its not good right? This has happened to me many a time!

A quick Google suggested this is not possible, but that wasn’t good enough for me.

How did you get it to work?

It took a bit of nerdy know how, a decent router and a publicly accessible Linux box.

Decent router – I was using a NowTV (watered down Roku) box, these don’t have the option to manually specify the DNS server addresses so you have to set the DNS servers in my router

Linux box – I used a CentOS 7 box running BIND and Apache, BIND responded to the DNS requests aiming everything at the Apache server

The basic idea is to redirect any requests to ‘known advertiser servers’ to your own server which is returning a single pixel instead of the advertisers video, and it did work really well:

As you can see above the same programme has ads and one does not. This method also removes the ad cue points so you are literally just served with the entire video – cool, huh?

Notes

  • This was just a test, please don’t lecture me about the importance of advertising and the revenue it generates
  • I only tested it with the Roku app, although I think it would have worked for the Xbox app too
  • I guess the same tecnique could be used to create a ‘super’ ad blocker that works with more than just on demand services

Incoming search terms:

  • adblock roku
  • blocking ads on roku
  • remove ads from roku
  • roku app ad blocker
  • roku turn off video ads 2017

A word of warning about Kimsufi and ESXi

Kimsufi are well known for offering cheap dedicated servers and over the years I’ve had no problems until recently.

I purchased a KS-5 for running VMware ESXi on, it was a fairly good spec Xeon with 16GB of ram and 2TB disk space for about £30 a month plus a one time setup fee. It was quickly provisioned which was great, but after logging into my account I found a problem – There was no obvious place to order additional IPv4 addresses which rendered the server completely useless to me. I was prompted to select an operating system, so I did thinking this would make ordering IP addresses possible, but still nothing.

I contacted support immediately and asked if ordering additional IP addresses was possible, and if not to cancel and refund my account. They responded in a nut shell saying its not possible, and that because I’d installed the VMware template that they provided they wouldn’t refund me which was annoying, they also implied that because the service was so cheap I should be grateful and suggested using their sister brand SoYouStart, amusing.

Luckily I paid with PayPal so I opened a dispute and got my money back. It’s not about the money though, its about Kimsufi not making the facts clear and then fobbing you off. I’d usually recommend them, but not anymore.

I’ve since found a better provider, Online.net offering similar spec servers capable of running ESXi with, wait for it, the option to order additional IP addresses! Amazing.

Incoming search terms:

  • kimsufi esxi